The runways are showing some bold new ways to crop this spring. We asked top stylist Rob McMillen from the Blind Barber salon how to style and maintain the season’s most popular cuts.
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To pull this look off, you need one thing: thick hair. “If a guy has really fine hair, he’s going to look like Kid Rock,” says McMillen of the notoriously stringy-haired singer. He advises visiting a stylist every four to six weeks to snip the ends to keep them neat. And make sure you’re cleaning your hair correctly: “Guys with long hair will focus on shampooing the middle and ends and ignore the scalp,” McMillen says.
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A good buzz fade can, surprisingly, demand a lot of attention depending on how fast your hair grows. “If you take it down to 1⁄4 inch on the top and 1/8 inch on the sides, it’s going to show some fading and blending” of the longer hair on top with the shorter hair on the sides, McMillen explains. “Normally, for a buzz or a fade, you’re looking at get- ting it trimmed every two weeks to try and keep that clean.”
As with longer cuts, if the texture of your hair is too fine, a messy or tousled style can be less than successful. “It comes down to a lot of texture,” says McMillen. For this cut, it’s important to have the edges tapered to avoid a “wildman” look. For upkeep, try to get a trim every four to eight weeks. When styling, apply a light clay or other product with a very strong hold to keep the messiness in place.
Once you’ve gotten them meticulously cut, bangs do require some attention, but it’s not rocket science. You want them to have texture and movement, says McMillen: “To make them sweep across the forehead, try a lighter styling product or even a sea salt spray,” which will give you the swept- back look you’d get at the beach. “This allows the bangs to look natural and have a little bit of volume.”
This powerful style is perfect for someone with a squarer jaw. After a pro gives you the right cut—taking extra weight out and making sure the “corners” (the top sides, where your hairline begins to recede as you get older) don’t protrude too much— you’ll need some hold to pull it off on the regular. “Apply a strong, lather-based hold product to your hair when damp or wet,” McMillen says.
For a traditional mid-1950s pomp style, you’re going to want to use something that can really hold your hair in place, like Layrite or a comparable product. “It’ll probably require more maintenance from your stylist or barber than these other looks,” McMillen says. To style it yourself, blow-dry your hair until it’s wispy; then comb the product into your hair, comb it up, and pat it down.