Let’s face it: The most delicious item on the table gets a bum rap. Gravy is essentially just meat stock thickened with roux—a mix of butter and flour—with the bits from the roasting pan dumped in.
Too often, though, it becomes a greasy, congealed mess from too much butter in the roux, and pan drippings that are 90% fat and only 10% meaty flavor.
Here’s your solution: Boost the stock’s flavor and cut out all the grossness by leaving the pan drippings out of it. Voilà: Gravy that won’t give you a heart attack.
Melt 1 Tbsp butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add onion, garlic, carrot, celery, neck, and giblets, and cook, stirring occasionally, until evenly browned.
Add stock and soy sauce, bring to a boil, then reduce heat, partly cover, and simmer for 1 hour. Strain; keep stock warm over low heat.
In a large sauté pan over medium-low heat, melt 2 Tbsp butter; add flour, whisking frequently, until it slowly turns deep brown and nutty-smelling. Slowly whisk in the warm stock, bring to a boil, then reduce heat and cook until thick and gravy-textured.
Add salt and pepper to taste. (If there are lumps, just whiz the gravy in a blender.)